Málaga guided tapa tour

Meet Michael. He was born in  South Africa, raised in England but it is Málaga that  caught his wandering heart, and he considered home. His love for this city, its people and the foods is evident in his words and the gleam of his eyes.  FF calls him ''The Tapa Guru'', because that's what he is. There are hundreds of tapa bars and restaurants all over Málaga and if you don't know want to waste your time playing hit or miss  ,  then give this l guy a call. He knows the place like the back of his hand . After eating a rather disappointing lunch on our arrival, I'm very grateful to have him show us marvelous places for dinner. He also graciously showed me how Malagueños as well as how the rest of Andalusia enjoy their tapas. We went tapa hopping! Eating few dishes at each bar , enjoying wine or drink at each, have a good laugh and entertaining talk with dining companion, before moving to the next. It was a fantastic way to spend an evening. 

Michael showed us a perfect melange of old and modern Andalusian cuisine . From traditional tapas at old fashioned El tapeo to the more trendy bars with contemporary fares , often made by young and innovative chefs. His choice of tapa bar fully depends on our personal preference, which FF and I might have unconsciously slipped during our  conversation . A simple comment about what peaked my interest, what FF raves and off he go excitedly to the next bar with an all knowing glint in his eyes.

El Patio Bodega

I was complaining about the lackluster paella I had for lunch, Michael purposely led us through the gathering throng , labyrinth of alleys and brought us here, El Patio Bodega. They offer authentic and traditional  tapas with excellent and a varied choices of paella to boost. This is where I should go if I want to have real paella, he said. But we are not here for that. Locals, according to Michael, rarely eat paella for dinner . Rice is rather heavy on the stomach and is best eaten at lunch. Tapas my friends, is what Malagueños prefer for dinner when going out. Michael ordered a  cold Sangria to start the meal. It was sweet and refreshing. Porra Antequerana, a light tomato and paprika purée with juicy diced hamon and Ensaladilla rusa,  a creamy potato salad were our first treat. These are classic dishes and mostly  enjoyed by locals, which is evident as it make frequent appearances at people's dining tables, as I observed.

FF and I retraced our steps and came back here on the next day. Twice! We feasted on Paella Negro or squid ink paella for lunch, which was fantastic, by the way. And feasted on more tapas for dinner. The seafood croquettes or croquetas de mariscos ( top left), Crema de limon tostada  ( bottom left ) were worth trip.

El Patio Bodega

Calle Granada , 39

Málaga

+34952212031

Never eat near any architectural landmark, cathedral or square. That's one rule I try to stick to when travelling. You will end up paying for the view, which usually comes with extraordinary price tag and ordinary food. Even Michael agree to that. However,   La Plaza Bar and Restaurant,  he says, is an exception to that rule. It is within the neighbourhood where Picasso was born and faces Plaza de la Merced with monument of the famous artist in it. La Plaza makes interesting tapas, using traditional and local ingredients and cooking it in a not so traditional way. We had green salad  ( bottom left) with  white sardines, which is quite famous and common in Malaga . But it was the deep fried balls of goodness ( bottom right)  that blew me away. I love deep fried things! I can't help but exclaim and I swear i just saw Michael's eyes flash at the revelation. It was actually blood sausage, with goat's cheese and god knows what else which were coated with light batter, deep fried and served with sweet apple compote. It was fantastic! I wonder if it's possible to make dinuguan balls, after having it.

We also came back here on the next day, this time FF and I had some fresh , pan fried salmon laid on coconuty curry sauce. Rich stew and mashed potato duo. Both were amazing. Every dish we ordered in this place never really disappointed me . FF was singing praises like choir boy as well !

La Plaza Bar and Restaurant

Plaza de la Merced, 18

29102 Málaga

+34952369878

My favourite tapa bar of the night. Owned by a Michelin star chef and restaurateur, Kisko García. KGB is packed to the hilt , one look and I  know, we're in for a treat. Michael was just so lucky to have wiggle his way through the hordes of diners and drinker and secure us a seat at the bar. KBG plays homage to local cuisine while embracing the influences of both  the east and west .  I saw Vietnamese rolls, fried eels, tacos!,Pekingese paos on dim sum baskets along with all too familiar Andalusian fares , everything served with a contemporary twist. The sight, the smell was  feast for the eyes and senses. 

Since my love for anything bathed in hot oil is laid out in the open, it took Michael a nanosecond to decide what's our next treat. The place is relatively new but it was packed, mostly with locals chatting and laughing in Spanish tongue. The happy mood is infectious  that  FF and I started talking as loud and as merry as the people around us. And that was before I even got the foods and booze! First to be served, ( bottom left)  was my favourite of the night. It reminds me of home. Tortang dilis is a typical commoner's dish but while Filipinos use anchovies in this dish, KBG used tiny shrimps instead, making this particular fried delight more intensive in flavour. The batter was crispy, well seasoned and not at all  soggy like our tortas. I would love to have this recipe. FF's favourite of the night ( bottom right) was rolled packets of hamon, cheese and things I could not name. Fried to a crisp as well, it was a goes wonderfully well with many alcoholic drinks , and yup, he had enough of those tonight. 

We like the KGB so much, we skipped going to the next tapa bar,  just stayed here and order dessert. Sweet ''burger'' with brioche bread, chocolate ''pattie', sweet slice of fruit and berry sauce completed the look. Yes, it was delicious as well.  The chocolate dessert in vanilley , alcohol- kissed sauce was a textural and palatal  delight. I was lapping it all up like a cat enjoying some cream. I would have love to go back here again but unfortunately , the place is close on Sundays and we have dinner reservation on Monday. Oh well, one can't have everything , I suppose. More reason to go back to Malaga then!

KGB Málaga

Calle Fresca, 12

Málaga

+34952226851

Restaurante El Tres, Málaga

A very reliable source told me, if I want to eat well in Malaga, then I should steer clear of the touristic spots, forget Tripadvisor and go where locals go. Since he brought me to Tapa bars with delicious precious treats that still haunted me in my sleep and most of my working hours until today, I cease to question his expertise in this matter. How could I , when his love for good food is as evident as his sun kissed skin anyway?

 El Tres, is in his opinion the best restaurant in Malaga. So El Tres we went .Was it really the best in Malaga? I honestly can not say, for although FF and I were spoilt by smorgasbord fantastic foods during our stay, thanks to this reliable source anyway,  there still hundreds of restaurants left unexplored  , savouries untried and treats untested.   One thing for sure though,  that dinner in El Tres was the best  we had in the city.

Service was  exceptional. Waitstaff served with ease efficiency without compromising  the typical Malaguenean warmth. It must be the weather. 365 days of  sunshine  makes people naturally  cherry. Germany could really need more rays of sunlight .

Menu was not overwhelming . The moment we placed our order, we were served freshly baked, warm bread to start our meal.  I know a good restaurant the moment I get their bread. Trust me on this one! Little details like this, make one restaurant stand out from the rest. The bread was served with finest olive oil. FF and I enjoyed it very much. How could something profoundly simple could be soooo satisfying? I just asked myself  as I put another chunk of oil dipped warm, crusty bread into my anticipating maw. 

On the house amuse bouche. Porra with finely diced egg and hamon. The cold , creamy soup subtly taste of tomatoes and paprika. It was light and each ingredient are cook like they are meant to be cooked together.

Next to follow was another amuse bouche of Monkfish pate with monkfish cream and pepper sauce. I love everything in this dish! The watchful waitstaff saw how I enjoyed it with the rest of my bread, she offered me another warm roll.

Sarpacion de Marisco y conchas Malaguenas

Starter. Seafood and Malaga's shell salad. Light and sublime,  packed with abundant creatures of the sea. The vinaigrette brought the fresh tomatoes , finely chopped chives and  seafood enough zest to whet my already tantalized appetite.

Parrillada de verduras con vieras y fruta asada

Grilled vegetable and fruits with scallops. The vegetables and fruits were  kissed  by the torrid heat and attain a trace  of smokey goodness  while still retaining its crunch and texture. FF hates zucchinis but he enjoyed this one immensely . The cherries was filled with sweetish mango puree by the way , and were simply divine. The scallops are succulent and fresh, it literally melt in my mouth . This dish   is one of my favourites of the night.

Our maître, Juanjo, slicing the main dish. Chateaubriand de Solomillo de
 Terna Gallega con salsa ' Bearnesa'

Our main dish for two. Galician Chateaubriand . The tenderest cut of beef and done really well . Seared to a perfect brown-burnish tinge with a tantalisingly sexy and butter tender meat within. I like my steak almost bloody and this  is just made for me.  It was the best piece of meat I had in my recent memory.   A steak obviously cooked for steak lovers.

Main dish was served with rich  sauce Béarnaise so good I could dive in it, potato fries and sautéed crunchy vegetable.

My stomach was full, my body fed but my soul years for something more and it is called... Dessert! There must be an unrevealed chamber in a woman's anatomy that automatically unlocks and opens itself , leaving a gaping hole that needs to be filled, when she's about to end a meal. A meal, no matter how good,  will never be completed without it. So I had a cocktail sorbet-alcohol free, which I slurped happily. Drinkable dessert! Now that's a first! A bite sized, on the house morsel of chocolate tipped choux party and that gaping hole vanished with a resounding  dang! Ahhh what a  meal. 






Restaurante El Tres
Calle Strachen 7
Malaga
+34952223364

Sights and Eats: Langkawi Day 3

I woke up on the third day with a throbbing feet. Flip flops and steep rocky terrain aren't really meant together . I got blisters at the most inconvinient corners of my feet. It looks hideous and hurt like Mummy-puker. I was limping all the way to breakfast , face grimacing like I've just eaten something rotten . Needless to say, I had nicer mornings. 

Din is picking us up at 1:30 in the afternoon. So to kill some time, we checked out the neighbouring Casa Del Mar Hotel. It was a memorable day, especially for my guy, who's  as nervous as a lactating cat. He is getting his very first professional massage after all!  I planned this very well. Our Spa itineraries for the coming  weeks greatly depend on this day .

Casa Del Mar's Satkara Spa is hailed as the best in Langkawi in 2013, or at least according to Tripadvisor . We were immediate tended to , seated and  given a refreshing , sweet tamarind juice the moment we stepped in. Along with it are chilled, fragrant rolled towels to wipe some sweat off our faces. I smiled for the first time today.  Promising, very priming indeed . There we met the masseur  Carina. Her easy going and engaging personally certainly put FF at ease. His sloppy smile was  less twitchy  and his laughter less forced when we were guided into one of the two massage rooms. The treatment room was not overly big, nicely furnished and smells clean and good. Privacy was kept the whole time. Two thumbs up for that.

We both had a foot bath, which was  absolutely divine. The warm water was  infused with aromatic oil, dried orange rind and some other things, tired feet simply need. I skipped the foot massage because of my blisters and FF followed suit since he can't have anybody touching his feet. He  still doesn't know what he's missing.

Then we both lay face down on  massage table. Light, medium or hard. You could choose how your massage pressure will be. Then the blissful  effleurage and petrissage   began.It did not take long before I was knead to complete oblivion and was out snoring at 12 noon! Yup, it was that good. FF, despite all his inhibitions and tension, slept like a new born baby as well.

I felt languid and so relaxed after that wondrous 60 minutes, I was smiling blankly when we were ushered to another room  for some post-treatment  tea. FF shared the same dazed, contented look. Before saying our goodbyes to Carina and her colleague, FF booked another appointment. Mission accomplished! Let's do some tap dance!

Din was  in front of the lobby  right on time. Check out was a brisk and with all our luggages in tow, he drove us to our next hotel. I asked him to bring us some where nice for lunch. Bless Din, he certainly know how to please his guest. He brought us to the Tegala Marina. It boasts a beautiful view of the Harbour with some flashy looking yachts moored just in front of the restaurants .  We invited Din to eat with us and I  almost choke  on my own spit when he said he'll just  ''destroy the romantic mood''. He looked pretty serious so we let him off the hook . Talking about hesitant third wheels.

Lunch was at Tapaz Restaurant. I had the best coconut juice in my life there. Food was also very good. Portion was huge, service prompt and attentive. Crowd was less since it's past lunch time .

We shared  and flavourful Hummus and some fluffy light flat bread for starters. It was delicious !

I had a burger. Cooked medium with some golden, lightly season and perfectly crispy fries.

 FF's Fish and chips. It was huge! Fish was fresh and lightly battered. It could easily feed two people.

Look who's very happy with every mouthful? I was not kidding about the portions. The plates are huge and it is filled with food. We skipped dessert because of that.

A post meal walk around the Marina is just what we need after that. Then, Din drove us  to our next hotel, the Berjaya Resort. The place is enormous ! You are totally dependent on the resort's buggy to go around the resort's vast property . Try to book a room near the lobby if you want to stay in this place, it will save you from a lot of inconvenience. Walking especially at night is certainly not an option. Unless, you want to end up in the middle of the Forest and sleep beside fanged and long tailed creatures. And no,  I don't mean Edward and Jacob...

Berjaya offers  free transportion to the Oriental village as well. We went back there to do this.

Ride the highest gondola in Asia! Appreciate the unparalleled view of Langkawi at 700 meter above sea level. Being on high altitude certainly has its comforts. For one, we stop sweating and looking like slimy eels .The cool gushing wind is such as relief. The Hanging Bridge is under renovation when we went there, so you could play fear factor some other time. Yay!

We hitch another ride to the resort's Pahn Thai restaurant . Setting is romantic. The picturesque view of the lush and green covered mountains, turquoise waters and blue skies  will certainly whet your appetite. Everything you could expect from a restaurant perched in the middle of the sea. Grab a seat outside and enjoy the sunset when you are there and pray hard, it won't rain. Dinner was  filling but it did not blow me away as much as the wind that day.

We feasted on Pomelo salad (top left), deep sea bass in mildly spicy sauce. I reckon fish was not caught that day. Grilled chicken ( bottom left) was surprisingly good and is not as dry as it looks and lastly, green mango salad ( bottom right) which tasted and looked relatively similar to the pomelo salad. I guess they simply spit the marinade in two. 

The clouds are threateningly dark when we left the place giving the backdrop a rather dramatic look. We were already back in our chalets when it rained cats , dogs and donkeys.  Despite the not so  sunny beginning, FF and I are still lucky, aren't we?!